Friday, August 6, 2010

Catimbau National Park and the most amazing view I have ever seen!

We have left Triunfo to visit Catimbau National Park in the drylands. I really enjoyed Triunfo. I thought the scenery was nice and the weather was pleasant. I was really excited to visit Catimbau National Park and see cave paintings from prehistoric times. The park is Brazil's 2nd largest archeological site. There are 2,000 caves and 28 different areas with cave paintings. The views were spectacular.

Outside the park was a large cashew plantation. The company has cleared land from the caatanga to plant more cashew trees.

This company is powerful and influences people by providing them wih appliances and other services. If you are friendly to the company than you will have a @ spray painted on your home. If you are not friendly to the NGO then you will have an ab spray painted. Well if that doesn't make things strange enough than the story about the group of people up at the national park will.

The @ indicates this family is friendly to the cashew plantations intentions and operations.

This village at the top of the ravine are inhabited by people that were drawn here by a religious fanatic Meu Rei (My King). He was leader of an alternative community and claimed to be older than he actually was. Others viewed him as a mystical leader. Years ago the area was withdrawn so he was able to harbor many families on the compound.

Walking around the village I could not help but think of what it was like 30 years ago. Now it was like a ghost town. Nobody was around but us. However there was a little town of silence surrounding us. Kind of a surreal feeling. We left the village to begin our hike down to the cave paintings. Walking through this area of the caatanga was unique. It was very sandy. The soil was not nearly as sandy at the area where we saw the fossils. We continued walking until we came upon some amazing rock formations. This particular rock had a huge hole in the middle of it. The view through the rock was quite the sight. Looking out at the sandstone rocks and buttes. The scenes were unlike I have ever seen in my life. The vastness of it all was overwhelming. The panoramic view of the park was impressive. I really feel lucky that I am able to experience days like today. It got even better.

Later after soaking in the views. I walked down to the cave that contained art from prehistoric man. It was really cool seeing cave paintings up close. Being in the same cave that man lived in tens of thousands of years ago was remarkable. For me it doesn't get much better than that.
We later learned that a major fault line went through this park creating the wonderful views due to the poweful forces of nature. Catimbau was once part of the rift during the time of Pangea when the continents were connected and then rifted apart. This particular area broke away from Africa.
Once again I can't begin to explain how overwhelming the views were for me. The totality and complexity of the landscape was unlike anything I have ever seen. Niagara Falls is incredible and worthy of a spot but this national park is unique in various ways. Between the cashew plantation, religious commune, cave painting, faultline rifts, and amazing views this was an all encompassing experience.


























Tomorrow we are going to a market in Pesqueira and a white lace outlet.








Trip to the highest point: Pico do Papagaio

After our afternoon of surverying and interviewing we had lunch back at the hotel. Later we left the hotel in four wheel drive vehicles to see some coffee and banana growers. We then headed for the highest point in Pernambuco, Pico de Papagaio. It was quite the beautiful scene. An amazing sunset drifiting over the mountains in the distance.
I also enjoyed seeing the coffee and banana fields. We saw a pretty big cave and large cactuses. The views were also amazing. I ended up buying four bags of coffee from the family that owned the land and many others did the same.



Coffee growers home

The walls were incredible. The time and energy it must of took to build these wonderful walls is staggering. Look at the road also.






Cacti



Coffee drying
Cave


Atop Pico de Papagaio






Coffee grower insisted I come inside his home and see how brewed the wonderful batch we were drinking outside.


Sunset

Geography Activity

Today we were broken  into groups and given a family farm to investigate. The objective of this activity is to survery, document and analyze a family farm in the town of Triunfo. The family we researched was the Rodrigues family. This family seemed to be rather unique. They had a small church and mill on their property. Also their house was used as the bus stop so other kids would gather at this spot to get the bus. I asked a lot of questions and learned a great deal about the history of the farm. I am sure you all are surprised by that. The farm was started by Nico Rodriues sixty years ago. He wanted to become a farmer and start a family in the countryside of Triunfo. One of his friends fortunately owned some land outside of Triunfo. The man agreed to sell Neco a certain amount of land for payment each month. Neco added more land as the years wore on. Today he has left behind a productive farm.
Neco had four sons and the land has been left to them. Therefore the land has been subdivided. We looked closely at the oldest son of Neco, Aluisio. Megan did an excellent job mapping the plot of land we were assigned. We were able to talk to Aluisio and his daughter. We mainly talked to the daughter. She was 18 and studying to become an elementary school teacher. I felt bad for we almost made her miss the school bus.






Finished Product




Triunfo

Last night was quite the drive to Triunfo. It became quite obvious we were heading to higher ground.
Triunfo is located around 3,300 ft. high. I am enjoying the temperature. It feels like fall in Western Pennsylvania. Others in the group are not nearly as enthused.











The area of Triunfo produces a good deal of coffee and they have open areas used for cattle ranching. The plantations are small due to the elevation. The backlands of Brazil are conducive to coffee growing. There is more of a middle class in this town than we have seen. Triunfo started with the arrival of Catholic priests. The people settling in the area integrated better with the natives. Therefore it was a peaceful settlement back in the 1800's. Mystics also descended upon this small town. German Nuns helped establish schools and this has led to an educated population. The people here are more conservative politcally and have been isolated traditionally. The famous outlaw Lampiao hid out here while eluding authorities.

Today the coffee plantations are not doing as well. However tourism has been doing well. The people visiting are not just the rich but also the working class. The cimate is much cooler and the scenery beautiful. There are hotels all over the country that cater to the working class. 50 reals a night is a good deal. What has also helped bring people into the area is the development of good roads.

While walking around town we came upon a beautiful church in the center of town. We then walked into the local museum. There was a good exhibit on Lampiao. He was born in the state of Pernambuco. His father was killed by the police when he was 22. For the next 19 years Lampiao sought retribution. Lampiao was later betrayed by one of his posse members and cornered in a cave in the state of Sergipe. There Lampiao, his girlfriend and nine other followers were killed. He was a very brutal individual who did many bad things.
However now he is sort of revered in popular culture. Reminds me of Jesse James in America. In fact the governor may give him a pardon.




Later in the day we visited a school. This school was very interesting for it combined a school, seminary and a bed & breakfast. There are seven seminarians studying and worshipping there. The school started off as an orphanage and offered charity. There is also free day care for the community.










Wednesday, July 21, 2010

Tuesday, June 20th

I am on the slowest internet connection in the world. I am not able to upload any videos because the connection is slow. Pictures are taking forever to upload.

Waking up at the Nova Jerusalem was quite an experience. Last night was the first night I haven't been roommates with my good friend Chris. It was quite different because we know each other pretty well after traveling to Ecuador and Brazil. We have also hung out several times in addition to traveling together.



Awww, look how cute


Breakfast was quite interesting. On the way to breakfast I heard a noise in the trees and looked up and immediately started screaming like a little girl. Monkey, Monkey,Monkey is all I shouted. People rushed around to make sure I was okay. This is all normal for me. I love monkeys! We saw marmosets all around. I was a boy in wonder. Next thing you know one of our guides was feeding one of them. I later got to feed some bananas to one of the marmosets. It was pure heaven. They are so cute these marmosets. They look like little gremlins. I even got to pet one.

After breakfast we visited the caatanga. The caatanga is undisturbed and virtually untouched. A wealthy man owns the land that is why the land is so undisturbed. He is even thinking of making it a nature reserve. The area of the caatange and this area is twice the size of France. We traveled there by 4*4 vehicles. Chris, LaRissa, Bruno and I jumped on top of the vehicle. Talk about an adventure. The caatanga is full of cactai, thorn bushes and scrub trees. When we left the road and drove through the wilderness we had to duck, swerve and lay down to avoid the flying branches of thorns. It was so much fun. Luckily Chris was in front of me so I grabbed his shirt and moved him from side to side to help me avoid the huge thorns. What a great friend I know. Seriously though it was a lot of fun driving through the caatanga. We got of the trucks and began the hike through the preserve caatanga. On our way we saw all these rocks. However they looked very different. Our guide mentioned his broken English fossil. At first it didn't hit me because I have never seen fossils in nature. I didn't expect to see them in the middle of nowhere and not in a museum somewhere. The fossils have been dated and are from the PreCambrian era.  The bones were from 30,000 to 50,000 years ago. The fossils were wooly mammoths, giant sloths, armadillos. Armadillos were about the size of a VW bug. I will  be able to use all of this in my World History class. The way that they dated the fossils is by using radio carbon, luminiscent and calcium carbonate. They use the enamel in teeth to date the bones usinng the methods just mentioned. We then hiked to some huge granite rocks. We had an amazing panoramic view of the caatanga.


Jerusalem, getting ready for the caatanga.






On our way back from the caatanga our 4*4 vehicle got stuck. No it was not my fault :) We ended up getting out trying to push and pull the jeep out of the mud to no avail. We tried building a ramp to get out but this did not work as well. One vehicle had to make a couple of trips to get us out of the caatanga. Another cool experience. After getting back to Jerusalem we went swimming. Wow was that relaxing on a hot day in a semi arid climate.

After lunch we headed to where I am now Triunfo. On our way we stopped at basically a shopping mall. I finally bought my Brazilian soccer jersey that I had been searching for. It cost only 20 real which is basically 14 dollars. I am glad I waited to buy this jersey in Brazil rather than the states. We had a long bus ride to Triunfo. I listened to some much that one of our Brazilian grad students let me borrow. Clara played some different types of Brazilian music for me. Bosa Nova was one of them. It was enjoyable. We talked to Diogo, Clayton, Ronaldo and Jonas. We talked about soccer, travel, schools and crime. We got into Triunfo and were exhausted after our long ride.

Monday, July 19, 2010

Off to the countryside

Hotel Nova Jerusalem




Today we left Recife and headed to the countryside. This is always a great thing in my eyes. I enjoy cities but I never feel like I get a good feel for the country until I leave the city and head for the countryside.

On our way to Nova Jerusalem we stopped off at a few towns to compare and constrast the difference between the caatanga and the coast. It is vastly different and visible the differences. The caatanga, meaning white forest,  starts 50 miles west of Recife. It is a semi arid climate that has a vegetation of scrub thorns. The weather is much more comfortable and less humid. The wealthier families in Recife have homes in this area to get away from the city. The economy in this area is vastly different as well. Rather than the sugar cane that you see growing you see much more of a diverse growing pattern. Pineapples are grown here as well. There also is a large amount of granite that is found here and sent to the cities as the foundation for homes. Cheese and grapes are also produced in this area. In fact some Swiss families immigrated here and began to produce cheese.
Leaving Recife, headed towards the caatanga.

Eating Coxinhas, fried chicken thighs. Excellent of course

Outside Caruaru, looking at the various artisans and their work. I wandered off into the middle of nowhere.

I wandered off and headed up this hill for an amazing view.

Future Keith Moon at work

Local hat in the back country. I purchased it of course. Although the leather stinks like you wouldn't believe. I was made to put it in a zip lock bag and under the bus.

Marketplace in Caruaru, huge market















On our way to Nova Jersualem we stopped at two towns. The first was called Gravata. It is an economically vibrant, prosperous town. The town had a large middle class population. We then visited a town which is known for its artisans. There were trinkets and pottery of all kinds. The clay that is used is found in the nearbly flood plains. The countryside is great, people are very friendly. I was not into the shopping so I went on a walk down some back alleys. It was not sketchy at all. I was in a small town and knew I was safe. It was nice to get away on my own for a little bit and explore the area. I also got some great shots on camera.

The third town we visite was Caruaru. We visited a marketplace and I bought a traditional Brazilian outfit which I will have to share. This town was busy and the people seemed to be doing well financially as well.

Nova Jerusalem is very interesting. It is the site where the Passion of Christ play is performed. There are huge stages and a hotel that is incredible. The scene is out of ancient Palestine. There are large stone walls, beautiful gardens and ponds. I felt like I was transported to Jerusalem thousands of years ago. We got there later at night so were not able to explore quite as much. We had a wonderful

Sunday, July 18, 2010

Tour around Old Recife

Today we took more of a detailed tour around Old Town Recife. We first visited an old prison that has been transformed into a market. We then had a professor from Recife named Nilson Corccia give us a walking tour of the old part of the city. Lastly we boarded a boat and had a wonderful time cruising the Capybara River. I certainly saw some images that will last with me a very long time. We then came back to Old Town and discovered a wonderful fair or festival occurring. After dinner we went out and watched a band and experienced some wondeful music and dancing.



As mentioned our first activity of the day was to visit an old prison that once housed criminals from Pernambuco and neighboring states. The pententiary was built in the 1800's and was shut down in the 1970's. The prison intentionally segregated prisoners so that they would not be influenced or be able to learn from prisoners that committed different crimes. At the bottom of the prison would be what we would consider as solitary confinement. However this was even worse than being locked up by yourself for days. The bottom floor had a door that would allow water into the prison cell. The prisoner would be tied up and be subjected to rising waters when the tide from the ocean would come in. Chris and I were hypothesizing that with water this could bring wrinkley and decaying skin. River rats, snakes and fish could peck at that person creating severe pain and fear. There was a local railway that was built by the British in the 1800's as well. This was beneficial because prisoners could easily be transported back and forth. The railway went through several transition periods from being private to nationalized back to private then nationalized and finally run down and completely out of use. The prison is now a market with shops. It was rather weird walking through former prison cells, visiting what are now shops. If only the walls could talk? Actually thank goodness they do not.








After the prison or market tour. We walked around old town with Nilson and Reynaldo. Reynaldo in particular has been a huge help. He is a professor along with Antonio. He is young and really helpful. I give him a lot of credit handling our group. As you can imagine with a group of 18 teachers there are plenty of questions and conversations. He should be commended for a job well done.
We learned that people in the past identified or told others about where they were from by mentioning their local church. The church owned most of the land and the people would pay the church rent to stay in their particular house or dwelling. Franciscans was the most prominent religious order. We also learned that the Catholic church is only open during mass. The Protestant church on the other hand is always open. This has actually resulted in some Catholic worshippers converting to Protestantism.























After lunch we said good bye to Lucas, Lacrissa and Bruno. The playoffs started today for their favorite soccer team, Santa Cruz. Chris and I really wished we could go and we made a joke to Bob our group leader about it. However as he pointed out, if we went, everyone would want to go and that would cause a problem. I certainly would've loved to see a local soccer match. The more I thought about it though, I am sure our graduate students were looking forward to a break from being with us. Just to have a sense of normalcy and speak in their native tongue. I will be interested to hear how the game went tomorrow. I also hope they stayed safe. There are fights that occur inside and outside of the stadium. That is why they forbid alcohol from being sold inside the stadium. Anyways I digress once again. Our second activity of the day was taking a river cruise around Recife. I really enjoyed the relaxation and the ability to observe. As I have mentioned previously to most of you what I really love about these institutes is that the learning is done while participating in activities. What I mean by that is we are for the most part not sitting in classrooms listening to presentations. We are outside observing, listening, responding and most important moving around. This is how I learn best and I feel like the rest of the group would agree.

During the river cruise I saw some images that were encouraging and discouraging, just like in any other area. I however have never seen images of poverty which I witnessed today. Some of those images will stay with me the rest of my life. Anytime I feel the need to complain about not having this or that I need to think of the scenes from today. We literally saw the smallest shanty structures I have never seen. I have witnessed poverty in Jamaica, Ecuador and Cuba. This ranked up there or even more so with some of the worst poverty I have ever seen. One image will always stick out. The people around here are very friendly. We were crusing along the river passing one of the shanty structures and we saw a little boy who was maybe two. The little boy had a diaper on and his pacifier. He waved to us and screamed at us. I do not know what he said but he ran along his house following the boat. I could not help but feel bad for this boy. Will this boy have the opportunity to raise himself out poverty? Will he have the chance? Does generation after generation experience this in this shanty area? I also could not help to think and contrast this boys life with my niece's life. The are both around the same age but yet their opportunities to succeed are in my mind so vastly different. This weighed on my mind for quite some time, thinking about this little boy and his future.














After turning into a tomato on the river cruise we docked at old town and began to walk to the area where the synagogue was that we visited the other day. We looked around in amazement in how vastly different the scene was. All of this on a Sunday night. The place was packed and full of people. There was a huge street fair taking place with vendor of all sorts. There was music, magicians, comics. It was booming. Chris and I decided to visit a restaurant and just observe the scene. We both want to hold off on buying things so we don't have to cart them around for two weeks. Some people have been shopping up a storm. Most of the vendors were selling products that catered to women anyway. So Chris and I just sat back and watched the scenes unfold. All of a sudden we hear booming drums coming from the distance and inching closer and closer. We walked to the area and noticed maybe 30 drummers doing their thing and doing their thing quite well. It was awesome seeing this drumline. I could not help but get my groove on.











Lastly Mike, Kelly, Donnika, Chris and I decided to walk along the beach and head to a park nearby. Kelly and Donnika had visited the park and led the way. We arrived and there were people everywhere. There was music playing in the distance and we of course headed in that direction. We then spent the night listening to the beautiful sounds of Brazilian music. If you can not move to Brazilian music than there is something wrong with you. The music is lively and full of life. There were people gathered around a circle listening to a band do its thing. Inside of the circle couples and others were dancing the forro, merengue and salsa. It was great to watch. I also didn't feel like I stuck out so much as a tourist. It is obviously much easier and more comfortable traveling in a small group. I certainly felt like I had a wonderful cultural experience.










Tomorrow we will be leaving Recife for five days. I am not sure about the access to the internet. So you may not hear from me.